JEWELRY & GEMS
0083 British newspapers heaped scorn on General Montauban, leader of French forces, after the 1860 war. The Manchester Courier wrote that his:
‘chief merit consists in the great good luck which enabled him to be first in the Summer Palace at Pekin, because of the bravery of those British troops that dispersed the Tartar hordes by the fire of Armstrong guns’. (8 March 1862, Manchester Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser, p. 6.)
The press also gossiped about a gift made by Montauban, who had ‘filled his pockets from the caskets of the Chinese Empresses’. Seemingly to curry favour at court, Montauban had presented the Empress of France and the Duchess of Malakoff with valuable bracelets: ‘One of which was made of a very rare kind of dark grey pearl, and the other of diamonds, emeralds, and gigantic rubies’. (12 March 1862, Newcastle Journal, p. 3.) When the bracelet of the Empress was later valued at 1.8 million francs and that of the Duchess even higher, he was reported to have ‘felt savage that he had thrown away a fortune’. (7 March 1862, West Briton and Cornwall Advertiser, p. 4.)
In 1886 the Cardiff Times reported: ‘When the Summer Palace at Pekin was sacked by the soldiers of the French and British armies, a costly necklace, worth about £100,000, was handed over to Count Palikao, who presented to the Empress Eugenie. The strong language used by the French press, however, caused her to give it back to the Count, and it was afterwards exposed for sale in a jeweller’s shop in Paris.’ (10 April 1886, Cardiff Times, p. 4.) Updated 22 February 2016.
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0084 In the spring of 1862 British papers covered the approaching marriage of Baron Haussmann’s daughter Valentine to Viscount Pernety, telling readers: ‘they say she will be decked with the jewels brought from the Summer Palace at Pekin’. From Napoleon III she was to receive a wreath of pearls ‘considered a most delicate acknowledgement of the famous necklace presented by Count Palikao* to her Majesty on his return from China’. (11 March 1862, Sheffield Independent, p. 7; reprinted from the Court Journal.)
* Count Palikao is the title Napoleon III gave General Montauban upon his return from China.
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0101 A necklace of pearl ornamented with green jade was displayed in the case of Mr. Emanuel at the Great Exhibition in London, 1862. A reviewer described it as: ‘a genuine Chinese necklace of the finest Orient pearl, part of the loot of the Summer Palace, and which already has found its way to the case of Mr. Emanuel. It is very beautifully strung, and ornamented with green jade, a very precious article in China, and might be worn at a London ball without any alteration. The value of this costly spoil of some princess of the Flowery Land is set down at 4,000l.: not a bad loot for whichever of our intimate allies was the fortunate captor.’ (4 July 1862, London Daily News, p. 5.)
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0082 In 1864, the jewellery establishment of Messrs. J. and E. Hackett displayed some ‘interesting ornaments’ taken from the Summer Palace, most importantly:
‘two large bracelets in pure gold, of such a massive and valuable character that they weigh no less than one pound, two ounces. These bracelets are simple coils of golden wire, not at all unlike pieces of the Atlantic telegraph cable in their construction; but so devoid of alloy that they can be freely bent in any way without being in the least degree injured. As specimens of the rude yet magnificent ornaments of the Chinese we have never seen anything more interesting. Along with these are a number of rings, seals, &c., also borne away as trophies form the Summer Palace, and also of a remarkably interesting nature.’ (23 March 1864, Cork Examiner, p. 2.)
J.Hackett 和 E. Hackett 先生 的 珠宝 商店 展示 了出自 圆明园 的 有趣 饰品. 其中 最 重要 的 一对 纯 金 大 手镯 , 它们 非常 厚重 珍贵，重量 足足 有 1 磅 2 盎司. 这些 手镯 有 简单 的 金线 卷，像 大西洋 电报机 电线 中国 饰品 通常 是 粗糙 但 是 华丽 的. 但 是 这 件 样品 是 我们 见 过 的 最 有趣 的 中国 饰品 但 它们 是 由品质 非常 纯 正 的 金 制成 的, 因此 可以 随意弯曲 不 折断 . 除 此 之 外， 还有 一 些 从 圆明 园 夺 走 的 不寻 常 的有 趣 的 戒指，印玺 等 战 利 品. (1864年 3 月 23日, Cork Examiner, 第2页.)
张小蕾和凯特 · 希尔（Kate Hill）
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0052 The following 202 items were included under the heading ‘Chinese Jewels and Precious Stones’ in the catalogue of Capitaine Negroni’s collection of spoils from the Yuanmingyuan, exhibited at the Crystal Palace in 1865:
p. 31
175. Four green and white jade bangle bracelets, worn by the Empress.
176. The magnificent jewel-case used by the Empress. It is in Mosaic work, formed with sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and pearls. Nothing can be finer or richer than this box, and probably there is no other in the world of equal value.
177. Another Mosaic box, but not quite so rich; it is composed of pearls, diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. It is believed to be of Indian manufacture; probably a present from some prince.
178. A jewel-case, with Mosaic lid. The stones are white and yellow topazes and emeralds, surrounding a large smooth cut sapphire. The sides are engraved in demi-relief, and at the bottom is the signet of some Indian kingdom. This, also, was probably a present.
179. An ornament used on state occasions by the Emperor. It has a box centre, containing a jewelled bouquet on an opal ground, surrounded by a border of diamonds and rubies; this is placed on aslab of amethyst, and the whole surrounded by a row of topazes; a second of diamonds and rubies; and a third of sapphires.
180. A locket, made if filagree virgin gold. It is enriched with rubies, turquoise, &c. It was the personal property of the Empress.
181. A small bottle in opaque amber, with a cover in green jade.
182. A small bottle in red amber, with designs in relief.
p. 32
183. A little bottle, in which is said to be the essence of crocodile. It is reputed to be the strongest stimulant in existence, and, when used, terminates life through the excessive action of the emotions. According to Chinese law, this poison must only be in the possession of the Emperor, who alone has the power of life or death. It is believed the only other bottle in existence is in the hands of the Sultan of Turkey.
184. The Empress’s chatelaine, with various curious appendages. It is in virgin gold, with small ornaments decorated with blue feathers.
185. A scent-bottle in the form of a cone, of baroque pearls, with stopper in red coral. This is a very uncommon and beautiful object.
186. Another bottle of the same description.
187. One of the Emperor’s decorations, in beautiful amber, charmingly wrought, and having the imperial seal and the emblems of happiness. It is mounted with coral beads and silk cord and tassel.
188. A small snuff-box, with a cornelian, lightly shaded with white, set in the cover.
189. The Emperor’s state waist-clasp, made of a large uncut sapphire and ruby set in a gold mounting, inlaid with blue feathers. The hook is formed by the head of the imperial dragon.
190. The Emperor’s state waist-clasp, made of a large uncut sapphire and two large Oriental moss agates.
191. A waist-clasp, with a large Oriental amethyst centre, and a large aqua-marine on each side. The mounting is in fine gold, richly chased.
192. A waist clasp, ornamented with two Oriental jaspers with cornelian centre. They have a fluted gold mounting.
193. A waist clasp, having an uncut ruby centre, with a fine famille sapphire on each side. The mounting is very antique.
195. A waist clasp, with rose ruby centre, with a fine famille sapphire on each side. The mounting is very antique.
196. A waist clasp, with an uncut sapphire centre, having a heart-shaped rose ruby at one side and a prase of the same shape on the other side. The mounting is very peculiar.
p. 33
197. A waist ornament, with a heart-shaped emerald centre, surrounded by four Oriental rubies of various shades and forms.
198. The Empress’s hand glass, formed of a polished obsodiecee plate, backed with a fine turquoise enamel, on which the imperial cypher and a variety of Chinese emblems are beautifully executed. The frame is in dark blue enamel, illuminated with gold, and a handle to correspond is united to it by a stained ivory ornament, while at the other end is a gold Ming ferrule, to which a silk tassel and a coral bead is attached.
199. An emerald ornament with a filagree enamel border.
200. Two green jade rings.
201. An emerald do. [ditto]
202. An emerald pendant.
203. A green jade leaf.
204. A green jade monkey.
205. A monster, in green jade.
206. A green jade basket, containing fruit formed of coral, jade, ruby, amethyst and white sapphire.
207. Two asterique sapphire rings.
208. Part of a clasp, with a yellow diamond.
209. A splendid Oriental sapphire, weighing 48 carats. It was worn as a pendant to a necklace by the Empress, and is mounted in Chinese filigree gold.
210. An Oriental ruby, weighing 24 carats. It is of a very rich red colour.
211. Two rubies, worn as ear-drops by the Empress. They each weigh 16 carats, and are surmounted by two beautiful pearls in a delicate Chinese setting.
212. A famille sapphire, weighing 40 carats, very pure and beautiful.
213. A famille sapphire, weighing 15 carats, intended to serve as a ear-drop.
214. A sapphire button. It is a stone of extraordinary purity, and weighs eight carats.
215. A fine Oriental emerald, carved in the form of a basket; both the stone and the workmanship are wonderful. The basket contains a fish, a bottle, and drinking cup, with leaves. The Chinese valued this more than they would have done had it been a diamond. The weight is 40 carats.
p. 34
216. Another little basket in green jade. It contains flowers, and the bottom is pierced. How this could be carved in so hard a stone is a complete mystery, it weighs 30 carats.
217. A dragon in green jade, weighing 40 carats, worked on both sides and very well designed. This formed the centre of the Emperor’s chatelaine.
218. A diamond, slightly tinted with yellow; the weight is 50 carats.
219. A second diamond, of the same weight and colour.
220. A ruby pendant, for necklace, mounted in filagree gold. The stone is a little clouded, but still very beautiful. It weighs 40 carats.
221. A pair of ear-drops, in rubies, each weighing 20 carats. The mounting is Chinese, of a very curious and original design; each ruby is set in a carved turquoise, surmounted by a fine pearl.
222. A pair of fine jacinth ear-drops, in an antique mounting, with four brilliants in each.
223. A large Oriental amethyst, weighing 150 carats. It is in the form of fruit and is pierced for a pendant; it is a very fine specimen.
224. A large Oriental turquoise, weighing 100 carats, carved in the form of fruit and leaves.
225. A beetle, in Balais ruby, weighing 70 carats.
226. A dragon in rose ruby. It weighs 500 carats, and is one of the most extraordinary stones in the collection.
227. A large Oriental amethyst, weighing 50 carats. It is a clear stone, beautifully polished but uncut, and in certain lights produces wonderful effects.
228. An Oriental amethyst, weighing 40 carats.
229. A ruby cut in the form of a pendant, the weight is 25 carats.
230. An uncut Balais ruby, weighing 24 carats.
231. An Oriental emerald; a very beautiful green stone, clear, and without a flaw. It weighs 12 carats.
232. A collection of rubies in various forms, their weights ranging from 20 to 25 carats.
233. A collection of rubies, weighing from 10 to 12 carats, all shapes and shades.
p. 35
234. One hundred Oriental rubies.
235. One hundred Oriental rubies.
236. One hundred Oriental rubies.
237. Thirty-six Oriental sapphires.
238. Seventeen Oriental sapphires.
239. A sapphire, weighing 10 carats: a very fine dark stone.
240. Fifty-six Oriental rubies.
241. An Oriental ruby pendant, weighing 12 carats.
242. One hundred rose rubies.
243. A collection of rose rubies, weighing from 10 to 12 carats.
244. A heart-shaped ruby pendant, weighing 60 carats.
245. A collection of Oriental asterique rubies, of all forms and shades.
246. One hundred and thirty pieces of green jade of every possible shade.
247. Six turquoise, well cut, and weighing five carats each.
248. Seventeen light topazes.
249. A fine malachite pendant, weighing 50 carats, and carved in Chinese characters.
250. A white topaz, weighing 20 carats.
251. A Balais ruby in the form of a fruit, it weighs 40 carats.
252. A rose ruby shaded with yellow. This is a rare combination of colours.
253. An uncut Balais ruby.
254. An uncut Oriental ruby.
255. Two Oriental amethysts, fine clear stones.
256. An amethyst pendant.
257. A smaller do.
258. An Oriental ruby.
259. do. do.
260. do. do.
261. do. do.
262. do. do.
263. do. do.
264. do. do.
265. do. do.
266. A rose ruby.
p. 36
267. A rose ruby.
268. An Oriental sapphire.
269. An Oriental topaz.
270. An Oriental ruby.
271. do. do.
272. do. do.
273. An Oriental emerald.
274. An Oriental sapphire.
276. A diamond.
276. A yellow diamond.
277. A pink diamond.
278. An Oriental ruby.
279. do. do. very fine.
280. do. do.
281. do. do.
282. do. do. shewing the form of crystallization.
283. Six amethyst beads.
284. An Oriental sapphire.
285. do. do.
286. An Oriental ruby.
287. do. do.
288. do. do.
289. do. do.
290. do. do.
291. do. do.
292. A white sapphire.
293. An opal emerald; a very rare and curious stone.
294. An Oriental emerald.
295. do. do.
296. do. do.
297. A green jade.
298. do. do.
300. do. do.
301. The largest sapphire in the world; it weighs 742 carats, and is estimated to be worth £160,000.
p. 37
302. A large necklace belonging to the Empress, composed of 110 beads in rose ruby, weighing ten carats each, with larger beads at intervals. These are made of red Balais ruby, and weigh twenty carats each. Attached to this is a heart-shaped pendant, weighing 40 carats.
303. A bracelet of the same description.
304. The Empress’s jade necklace, composed of a hundred and ten beautiful white jade beads, and varied at intervals with rings of gold, and beads of lapis lazulae. A large pendant hangs from an ornament of lapis lazulae. In the centre of it is a large ruby, with enamelled filagree mounting, and an amethyst in silver mounting forms the terminal. The other three pendants are formed of beads, with terminals of amethyst in gold filagree mounting.
305. A bracelet of oval beads in white jade, varied with red cornelian.
306. A curious bracelet, composed of all the stones used by Orientals as sacred amulets. The contrast between the various coloured jades, rose rubies, &c., is very effective. This necklace was also found among the Empress’s jewels.
307. A necklace of small black beads, with pendant and ornaments in precious stones, representing Chinese animated nature, &c.
308. The Emperor’s necklace, of beautiful clear polished amber beads, divided into four parts by large turquoise beads, the pendant is composed of two fine specimens of green jade, united by bands of coral and pearls.
309. A necklace of red amber, with malachite ornaments and three pendants to match the side ones, having ruby terminals.
310. A necklace in black amber, with yellow agate beads at intervals. The pendant is in golden amber, and in the form of fruit. The whole is very remarkable and beautiful.
311. A large necklace in golden amber, with ornaments in turquoise, amethyst, and rose ruby.
312. A large necklace in golden amber, with ornaments in lapis lazulae and stained jade.
313. A necklace composed of white ivory beads, with two larger ones in pale green jade.
p. 38
314. A necklace made of dried berries, divided by malachite rings. It has a beautiful carved pendant.
315. Two bracelets of carved wood beads, having as ornament the Greek or Ming pattern, they are interspersed with red beads.
316. A bracelet in beads of pink coral, with fish pendant.
317. A necklace in sandal wood, with red beads and pendant.
318. A bracelet of turquoise beads, with leaf pendant. This is a very rare and costly article.
319. A bracelet of malachite beads, with singular pendant.
320. A bracelet of Chinese acorns, with lapis pendant.
321. A bracelet of delicately carved turquoise beads. This is very valuable and uncommon.
322. A cylinder bracelet, covered with blue feathers.
323. A bracelet of Oriental amethyst, with large pendant of the same stone, mounted in filagree gold.
324. A bracelet composed of pierced lapis lazulae beads, varied with plain ones in malachite.
325. A necklace of facetted aventurine beads, very beautiful and rare.
326. A bracelet of cornelian beads, with amethyst pendant.
327. A necklace of the same description.
328. A bracelet composed of rose ruby beads, varied with others in white jade.
329. A large necklace of Tartar rubies, of a greenish shade, having a pendant to match.
330. A dark amber necklace of the Emperor’s, with four large beads of green jade, with centre pendant of tourmaline, and side ones having amber terminals.
331. A necklace of imperial jade, with four large rose ruby beads. The centre pendant is of tourmaline, and one side pendant has a rose ruby terminal, the other an amber one.
332. A curious necklace, with beads covered with red silk.
333. A small cornelian necklace, with tourmaline pendants.
334. A ditto, with rose ruby pendant.
335. A beautiful spray of coral and turquoise flowers.
336. A spray, having fruit of imperial jade and malachite. The leaves and flowers are of green and white jade.
p. 39
337. A spray, with turquoise leaves and berries made of rose rubies, cornelians, and amethysts. The stems are united by a Ming band.
338. A gold filagree spray, covered with blue feathers, andsurmounted by a butterfly.
339. A hair-pin, formed of a curiously shaped pearl, in filagree mounting, surrounded by leaves of blue feathers.
340. A ditto of the same description.
341. do. do. do.
342. do. do. do.
343. do. do. do.
344. do. do. do.
345. do. do. do.
346. do. do. do.
347. A ditto, with fine Oriental pearl in filagree mounting.
348. A pin, with Oriental topaz in filagree and feather setting.
349. A pin, with cat’s-eye opal in filagree setting.
350. A pin, with a smaller stone of the same description.
351. A pin, with black opal in filagree setting.
352. A pin, with Oriental topaz.
353. A pin, in green jade stone, with engraved mounting.
354. do. do. do. do.
355. do. do. do. with ruby in filagree setting.
356. do. do. do. do.
357. do. do. do. do.
358. do. do. do. do.
359. A pin, with an emerald and ruby encircled with pearls, in filagree setting.
360. A pin, with a ruby set in a curious filagree and scroll setting, inlaid with feathers.
361. A pin, with fine uncut ruby encircled with pearls, in filagree mounting.
362. A pin, with fine heart-shaped pink diamond, with wreath of leaves inland [sic] with feathers.
363. A finger-ring, with fine turquoise.
364. do. with large rose diamond.
p. 40
365. A finger ring, with spindle ruby.
366. do. with sapphires and pearls.
367. A collection of enamelled keys.
368. do. of amber charms.
369. do. of coral and jade charms.
370. do. of agate beads.
371. Three beautifully carved jade flowers, with leaves inlaid with blue feathers.
372. A small bouquet, formed of rubies and jade in filagree setting, with leaves inlaid with feathers.
373. A flower made of pink jade, with ruby centre.
374. A bouquet, formed of two sapphires and a ruby in a filagree setting, inlaid with gold.
375. A mounting for a cane, in silver, with ring to match.
376. A collection of sachets.
377. A collection of purses.
(See Catalogue of Captain de Negroni's Collection of Porcelain, Jade, Jewels, Silks, Furs, Stones, &c., from Yuen-Min-Yuen, (The Summer Palace) Pekin, London: McCorquodale & Co. 1865, pp. 31-40.) The collection was sold through Messrs. Foster in June 1866. (16 June 1866, Birmingham Gazette, p. 4.)
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0051 In the autumn of 1866, the Yorkshire Gazette reported that a meeting of the Richmond and North Riding Naturalist’s Field Club ‘was one of very great interest, on account of Major Van Straubenzie having placed at the disposal of the president for the evening the gems taken by himself in 1860 from the Emperor of China’s summer palace near Pekin. The collection is of wondrous beauty as well as of great value. Perhaps the most attractive of the group is a Jade stone sceptre, used by the mandarins to place before their eyes when in the presence of the Emperor, and a white Jade stone vase, of workmanship unequaled out of the Celestial Empire. The greatest delight at the sight of each articles [sic] was expressed by the members, and a very hearty vote of thanks was accorded to Major Straubenzie for his considerable liberality.’ (17 November 1866, Yorkshire Gazette, p. 9.)
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0117 A reviewer at the Paris Exhibition in 1867 noted: ‘An ornament resembling a fly contains some beautiful emeralds brought from China by Count Montebello, and at least look quite as well in their present setting as they did when in the Summer Palace of Pekin, or in whatever part of the empire they were found.’ (25 April 1867, Morning Post, p. 5.)
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0118 A newspaper update on events at Torquay, England, in 1868, included the following notice: ‘SETTING THE FASHION.–A curious specimen of the Chinese art is on view at Mr. Gerry’s shop; it is a headdress made of silver gilt filigree work and stone; it was taken from the summer palace at Pekin when that city was occupied by the British.’ (31 January 1868, Western Times, p. 7.)
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0172 In 1874 a volunteers’ bazaar was held at St. Leonards Assembly Room to defray costs of a drill shed for the St. Leonards Artillery Volunteers. A reporter noted the many appealing objects in the art exhibition, concluding:
‘Mr. Maclean’s collection, however, was the chief centre of attraction, he exhibiting some costly articles formerly belonging to the Emperor of China, and which were taken from the summer palace at Pekin. First and foremost came a splendid gold watch inlaid with diamonds, and valued at 2000 guineas, which was presented to the former Emperor of China by Napoleon I., a necklace of jaspar, as worn by a Mandarin of the highest class; two of the Emperor’s seals, an exquisitely carved rhinoceros’s horn, beautifully carved ivory book cover, and an Imperial quilt, formed of ivory shavings, and lined with royal damask.’ (24 October 1874, Hastings and St. Leonard Observer, p. 7.) [0172 also listed under jewelry, animals/organic, seals, ivory and textiles.] 26 February 2016.
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0098 A report on the sale of the Duke of Brunswick’s jewels in Geneva in 1874 included the following item: ‘A Chinese idol, cut out of a single ruby of immense size, and taken from the Summer Palace of Pekin during the sacking of that place by the French troops, was sold for 15,000f.’ (16 May 1874, Driffield Times, p. 3.)
‘不伦瑞克 公爵 的 珠宝 拍卖会 . . . 一 个 大 红宝石 雕刻 的 中国 佛像 以 15,000 法郎 被 卖出了. 它 是 被 法国 军队 从 北京 圆明园 夺 走 的.’ (一 八 七 四 年 五月 十六, Driffield Times, 三 页) (Translation by Ge Dongsheng and Zhang Xiaolei with Kate Hill.)
In 1890 the ruby was again mentioned in the article “Precious stones: What Becomes of Them?”:
But perhaps the largest ruby of which any accurate knowledge has been obtained is that found during the sack of the Summer Palace at Pekin. It was carved into the image of a Buddha, and purchased on the return of the expedition by “the famous Duke of Brunswick,” but, on his death, was sold for the insignificant sum of six hundred pounds, owing, we believe, to the inferior character of the stone.” (24 July 1890, Wells Journal, p. 2.) 20 January 2016
Earlier that spring, the Morning Post wrote of the upcoming sale, noting among the Brunswick jewel collection: ‘some idols which formed part of the loot of the Summer Palace in Pekin by the French soldiers in 1860. They are as hideous as need by seen in any joss house, but are generally composed of very valuable stones.’ (19 March 1874, Morning Post, p. 6.) 13 February 2016
In 1891 the London Evening Standard again mentioned the carving:
‘Among the accumulations of the Duke of Brunswick sold in 1876 was a Chinese idol cut out of a single ruby of immense size, the history of the stone, which was part of the loot of the Summer Palace of Pekin, being unknown; but as the Buddha was sold for six hundred pounds, it could not have been of remarkable purity. ’ (14 March 1891, London Evening Standard, p. 5) 26 February 2016
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0225 The Hampshire Advertiser reported a spectacular gift to a Winchester museum in 1891:
THE CHINESE BROOCH which Mr. R. Moss, M.P., [editor: Richard Moss] has so generously given to the Museum, is a very curious and valuable example of the skill of the Chinese or Celestial jeweller. The setting and filagree work is pure gold, and the design represents foliage in gold, enamel, and pearls, with a mallard or drake, the body one large and curiously natural in shape pearl, the extended wings represented in jade. The bird is chasing a large fly, with a pearl body, and there is another insect behind the bird. Small pearls represent flowers. There is no doubt that it is part of the “loot” of the Emperor’s Summer Palace at Pekin thirty years ago, when the French got the lion’s and the English the lamb’s share. Our good Mayor (Colonel Morrah) was there with his regiment at the capture of the forts, &c.’ (29 July 1891, Hampshire Advertiser, p. 4.) 26 February 2016.
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All material on this page, unless otherwise credited, was produced by Kate Hill, who asserts her authorship of the work. © Kate Hill, Yuanmingyuan Artefact Index, 2016.